Winter Pakistan: Russians rebuild C1 and C2 in blizzard, GI teams in BC.

(Angela Benavides – – Posted: Jan 23, 2012)
There’s no brake for the Russians on K2, foul food floored Simone Moro on Nanga Parbat, and both G1 expeditions have reached BC.

K2: 30 minutes of sun in two weeks

It’s an uneven battle on K2. Over the past four days three Russians refixed the rute up to C2, while a second group rebuilt C1 and C2. Conditions however remain extremely tough. “(We have) overcast skies, strong wind, cold – and the forecast predicts the same in the nearest days,” the team reported. High winds also thwarted all attempts to fix the route above C2.

“Yesterday, close to the evening, the sun appeared on the sky for 30 minutes,” the men reported. “We hadn’t seen the sun since Jan, 12.” And then the storm returned.

Last weekend was also Alexey Bolotov’s birthday and the team issued the following tribute to him: “Alex is a highly experienced mountaineer of awesome energy, a reliable team mate, and we’re proud that he’s with us.”

Gasherbrum I: BC-ho!

After a fast trek both the Polish and the international team reached BC on Saturday. Temperatures in the tent that evening hit -25ºC, Alex Txikon told his home team.

“Thick fog didn’t let us see K2 or GIV on the way,” wrote the Polish climbers. “In the evening of arrival though, the sky cleared up and we saw our goal, GII, for the first time. We plan to spend two days organizing BC before going up,” they said.

Nanga Parbat

After working to 5,800m, Denis and Simone hoped to go back up today but food-poisoning last night forced the climbers to hold up. “Any action at high altitude demands top physical shape – most of all if the ‘action’ ahead is a long route on Nanga Parbat’s west face” Denis said.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at

AddThis Feed Button


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: