Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

(By: Angela Benavides Edited by: Brooke Meetze)
A four-member front-line group of Polish climbers reached BC Monday in such bitter cold conditions that even the winter veterans found hard to believe. A similar situation is facing Simone, Denis and Cory, who hit Gasherbrum II’s base that same day.

Polish winter Broad Peak: BC even colder than expected

“An old rule says that, when in winter Karakoram, it’s better not to ask for weather forecasts. Unfortunately, we did — this week, temperatures at 5,000 meters are going to fall and reach even -32º Celsius,” the Polish team reported yesterday.

An advanced party comprised of J. Gawrysiak, P. Snopczynski, R. Fronia and R. Kazmierskion reached BC on Monday, in order to check-in and start sorting out the expedition gear, which was already preloaded back in October 2010. “The guys had reported about the incredibly cold conditions on the approaching trek to Base Camp — back then we laughed and replied that ‘indeed it’s cold in the Karakoram during winter.’ We never imagined it would be that cold at such an altitude.”

“The first team with ropes for rigging is going to set off towards Camp 1 on Thursday,” the team added.

Straight from the winter wolf’s mouth: Antur Hajzer’s take

Some days ago, expedition leader Artur Hajzer shared some thoughts on the climb ahead with ExWeb’s Angela Benavides. He warned he might not be as easily available during the climb though.

“Our minds have to be free from any kind of pressure or controversy. Our main goal should be to get back alive,” he stated. “You [ExWeb] will be doing a big service to Karakorum winter expeditions [with your news coverage], but please understand that I have to do my best to ignore it and not to care. We have to be very careful with the competition factor,” Hajzer added

The team will climb Broad Peak following the normal route, hoping to achieve a fast progress, at least. “The summit ridge will be the main problem and the most difficult point,” Artur reckoned. “It is just the opposite from the climb on Gasherbrum II.”

“Otherwise, we’ll go traditional style: eight climbers, one BC manager, two cooks, and two Altitude Porters,” he added. Just like they did on Nanga Parbat in summer 2010 — the climbing team will include both seasoned veterans and younger climbers on their first winter Himalayan experience.

Originally, the team had also applied for a winter K2 climbing permit. “Finally we had canceled that permit and thus that plan,” Artur also noted.

Further winter teams update:

Gasherbrum II: BC — ho!

“We’ve just arrived in GII BC,” Simone texted on Monday. “We’re at the military camp at 5,100 meters; hopefully, tomorrow we’ll set up our own BC.”

Shimshal girls: Summit?

While confirmation is still expected, the female team from Shimshal Mountaineering School might have summited their first 6,000+ meter target: Mingligh Sar (6,050m).

GI: Long haul training

Before tackling winter GI, team member Louis Rousseau is acclimatizing (on the other side of the world). Currently in Aconcagua, Louis and his mates set up C1 on Monday, hoping to launch a summit push a.s.a.p.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website


Simone Moro blog


Gerfried Göschl

Louis Rousseau

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com


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