Pakistan's 2010 season finale wrap-up: ACP's summit list, new route on Spires, needed humanitarian efforts are still on.

Another Pakistan climbing summer is coming to its finale. While further details are expected on some summit claims, which are certified by the ACP, the climbing community is shocked after finding out about Cristian Stangle’s K2 summit charade; some cool new routes on the lesser peaks have contributed to at least putting a brighter end to the season.

Meanwhile, the emergency situation in Pakistan is still far from being over. With millions made homeless and disease spreading, it is going to be a long, bitter winter ahead.

ACP’s preliminary summit list

“This year is also a bleak season for the tourism industry,” a preliminary report by The Alpine Club of Pakistan reads. “32 expedition [teams] applied for their mountaineering expedition permits, however, five of them [later] asked for a cancellation. 140 groups applied for trekking permits in different valleys of Pakistan.”

An attached list of summiteers include nine people on top of Nanga Parbat, 12 on GI, 24 on GII and ten on Broad Peak.

K2 claims two casualties, Petar Unzhiev and Fredrik Ericsson, but no summits for the second year in a row.

Editor’s note: Christian Stangl was denied a summit certificate by the Alpine Club of Pakistan weeks ago. This was after other climbers who were sharing BC with him reported that his claim was unfounded. Stangl himself finally confessed to the media that it was a fake (check previous story).

Broad peak dark horses?

ExplorersWeb Pakistan correspondent Karrar Haidri is currently searching for further details concerning summit claims, particularly on Broad Peak with a larger number of successes than previous team reports have shown. Some BP teams may have passed unnoticed to ExplorersWeb until now though.

Such is the case of Anglo-Argentinean Broad Peak Expedition, comprising of Argentinean Nacho Lucero and Brit Andy. “We shared a permit with the Norwegian-Russian Missing Link Expedition team, even though we arrived at BC later than them,” Andy noted.

“There were only two of us and we climbed without HAPs or supplemental oxygen. We established camps up to 7,000 meters on the mountain and were ready to launch a summit bid, unfortunately the extreme weather did not allow us to go any further. Just getting back from BC to Skardu was an adventure in itself and we ended up being airlifted in a C-130 (Kinga Baranowska was also there) from Skardu to ISB.”

New route on spires

August also brought some new routes on Pakistan’s 6000 and 7000ers:

Oleg Koltunov and Vjacheslav Ivanov fron Saint Petersburg climbed the new route on the West Face.

Italians Daniele Nardi and Lorenzo Angelozzi climbed a 6,337-meter virgin peak in Hushe Valley on August 19.

Spaniards Miriam Marco, María Asunción Yanguas, Maialen Ojer and Maider Fraile, members of their national female climbing team, bagged firsts on two Karakoram spires of 5,860 and 5,610 meters each.

Pakistan floods update

Meanwhile, media attention fades from flood-stricken Pakistan. The situation is far from improving though, and the approaching winter months will make things even worse for the millions left homeless and unassisted.

“With millions of homes and livelihoods in flood-hit Pakistan washed away, disease spreading in affected areas and large swathes of the country still under water, the top United Nations relief chief Valerie Amos has warned that the emergency there is not yet over,” the UN reported yesterday. “This disaster–already one of the largest the world has seen–is still getting bigger,” Amos stated. She is currently on a three-day visit in Sindhi (southern Pakistan), where 6.9 million people have been affected by the heavy floods.

* Previous story :

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

Youngest On Everest Update: China Sets Age Limit On Everest.

Youngest On Everest Update: Nepal Grants Sherpa Permission.

Youngest On Everest: Worst Fears Realized?

Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Related Links :

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Newsreprot on Kuriki everest expedition – Mainichi daily news

Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season’s End Chronicle, take 5: Special report – The Spring of Annapurna.

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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